Re: New boat project CCSF25.5 - build thread

[cvincent]

I have also been following your build and your work is excellent. I may attempt to tackle a large boat build like this after I finish with the flats boat I am working on.

[Topwater]

Looking good Joel , that's going to be a nice boat .

[Admin - Shine]

A little progress last week. Fish box and step down area are just about done, these are the only two compartments that get fully faired. They are primed now with Quantum epoxy primer (gray), and they will get painted prior to deck going on.

The bilge and the forward/outside compartments get just minimal fairing, primer and and epoxy coating. Started gluing up cleats on the outside of the hull in prep for gluing down the deck. The foam is 20lb block foam ripped to the size I want, I will come back and grind a bevel to the tops of the foam to match angle of the sides

Deck is going to be 3/4" Airex foam with Vinylester resin and 1708 skins, maybe a little more on the top side. We are building a large panel table so I can vacuum bag these all in one shot. Once the table is made we will be selling these panels as well

[maxtork]

I'm curious, what the notches are for in the forward bulkhead? Also how many layers of 1708 are you going to use on your deck pieces? I have some 3/4" plywood cut for my boat that I was going to cover with 1708 but man is that heavy. I thought about using foam like you but was worried that it would not be strong enough without putting gobs of glass on it only to end up just as heavy as the plywood.

Looks great!

Max

[Admin - Shine]

the notches are so that I can use the forward space in storing longer items.  There will be a deck hatch over the rear section - just more storage.  The alternative was to close the space off and foam it in.  One layer of 1708 on 3/4" foam is very strong.  How much glass is going to depend on how your going to use it.  Mine will have one layer each side and maybe and extra layer of mat on the top side just for a little added bulk.  

Each one of these panels (4x8) with a skin of 1708 each side should be about 35 pounds, so just over 1.1lb per square foot

forward compartments got highbuild, then epoxy coating (gray), so they are done

highbuild primer, fills the weave....



Raka epoxy with pigment, one coat covered it all.  

[Admin - Shine]

All compartments are coated.  Now putting in the drains for the livewell and stepdown (brass sleeves with plugs).  Running the fuel fill and vent lines now, also installing the livewell thru-hull/seacock.

[Admin - Shine]

first of the deck panels laid up

[Admin - Shine]

second deck panel laid up today, also making some 90 degree fiberglass angle for mounting.

[maxtork]

Looks great.

I have a question though. It looks like you are wetting out the panel but leaving the edges dry. Is that so you can wet out the edges when you install the panel in the boat? I have always had trouble if I don't wet out the entire panel.

Also how do you seal up the edges of the panel? Does it just get encapsulated when you install it or am I missing a step?

Thanks
Max

[Admin - Shine]

Hi Max, Edges of the panels are not glassed.  The edges are epoxied down to the cleats on the side, and then there is glass to tab the top to the hull side.  

Rigging chases made up and fitted, just about ready to put down the rear half of the deck.  




This the angle piece glued into place, it receives the rear of the sole, and gives a vertical surface to eventually put in the rear bulkhead. The sole runs past the two rear frames, so there is enough room for cockpit drains.

[maxtork]

Thanks Sir...that makes sense to use the excess glass hanging off the side to attach the panel. If you think about it I would love to see a picture or two of how that looks when you go to install those panels.

As always keep up the good work. That thing looks great.

Max

[Admin - Shine]

First section of sole it epoxied in place, second section dry fitted.

Bilge hatch gutter and fuel tank inspection plate receivers are epoxied in and glassed on the underside. Sole sections have a lip of fiberglass plate for the next section to attach to, they get bedded down in epoxy glue.

[Admin - Shine]

first two sections of sole are epoxied down in place. With epoxy you really do not want a super tight fit, dont want to squeeze all the epoxy putty out of the joint. One trick I use in bedding things in epoxy is to put small spacers on the surface of what your gluing to (in this case tops of the stringers), I use thin shims of foam about 1/2" square and about 3/16" tall. I hot glue these to the stringer top. The bead of epoxy putty I put down is about an 1" tall in the middle. So when you lay the part (sole in this case) down, you will not squeeze out the glue in some places like where it touches first. Screw or weight the part down and you will guarantee and equal amount of "squeeze out" everywhere.

Each section of sole takes about 2 quarts of mixed putty

hot coat both surfaces with a little unthickened epoxy first.

[Admin - Shine]

After a long, long, break from this project (getting another business started) Im back at it. Sole is down. Its glassed to the hullsides from the transom bulkhead to the fuel feeds. Making frames (green foam) for extra stiffness, will be adding similar frames forward. Frames/stiffeners and 2x2" thick foam core, laminated together and shaped. Goal for this week is to get forward section of sole glassed to hullsides and install the frames.

forward of the console dropdown is the fishbox, will be putting in a large pre-made hatch there. On the side of that are extra storage, two more hatches there. The small opening that are framed now are just the fuel tank access plates. I made simple molds for those, they will have simple removable access plates

[BogueSounder]

Saw your update on THT also. This will be a stunning boat. I enjoy seeing your updates. Thank you.

[Admin - Shine]

Saw your update on THT also. This will be a stunning boat. I enjoy seeing your updates. Thank you.

thanks man!

[Admin - Shine]

Sole glassed in all the way forward. The frames are glassed (outside the boat), and will be glassed to the hull sides later. I am a fan of making as many parts outside the boat as possible, just leads to better quality laminations. A lot of these parts (sole panels, hatches, frames) Im making with vinylester, then tabbing them in with epoxy.

Tabbing for the sole to the hullsides is 3 x 12oz biax tape set in epoxy.

[Admin - Shine]

Got a couple frames in. The frames are not trimmed (not final shape). Deviating from the plans a little in the deck/cap so i left a lot of meat on the first two frame - I want to get some battens in there to draw out a fair deck line that I can take the other frames off of (three points)

[BogueSounder]

Looking good. What is the black material the frames are made of?

[Admin - Shine]

Looking good. What is the black material the frames are made of?

coosa bluewater 28

[Admin - Shine]

Batten used to "draw" a line for the gunnels.  Plenty of room for large rod holders towards the stern (about 9" wide) and not too wide at the bow that your feet are not behind you when leaning over.  Will use the batten to take off measurement for the frames in between.

[Admin - Shine]

few more frames in.  They get a nice fillet, then 3 x DB1200 tape, edges offset. Still trying to keep her as light as I can

http://www.gulfstreamcomposites.com/product-p/lmh_biax_db1200_6in_roll.htm

link: DB1200  biaxial tape

[Wadestep]

Hey there Shine - the boat is really coming along! good to see the progress and I still really like the hull design. It will be really interesting to see this thing run. Seems like you are getting into the home stretch now - at least once those gunnels go on. Then it will really look like the finished product you've been imagining. Then some console, rigging, wiring, etc... I can't wait to see this beast float!
wade

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