Transom replacement on Mako 211

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Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by DAYTRIP on Mon Nov 16, 2015 8:48 am

Joel, my brother has a mako 211 that needs to have the core replaced. As I looked at it I had the thought of building the core on the outside face on the transom and then tabbing into the hull sides. Obviously would grind the gel coat off then glue merranti core on with epoxy then glass it over. Basically he is avoiding cutting the interior out. As I looked at it I thought it would retain its structure and in reality gain some due other features on the transom currently that don't let the core go side to side( trim tab pockets)

What do you think?

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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by Admin - Shine on Mon Nov 16, 2015 3:01 pm

In theory it should work. I would use fir plywood.
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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by DAYTRIP on Mon Nov 16, 2015 3:05 pm

Why Fir?

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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by Admin - Shine on Mon Nov 16, 2015 3:08 pm

hard, cheap, and down the street at home depot - if your covering it with a bunch of glass its great stuff.
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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by DAYTRIP on Mon Nov 16, 2015 3:12 pm

Got you. Thanks for telling me that after doing the whole Bertram with Meratni Shocked

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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by Admin - Shine on Mon Nov 16, 2015 3:20 pm

DAYTRIP wrote:Got you. Thanks for telling me that after doing the whole Bertram with Meratni Shocked

Haha, well its not at all the same quality. Meranti is a lot better. BUT for a transom that is going to get a ton of glass, the fir is just fine.
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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by DAYTRIP on Mon Nov 23, 2015 7:24 pm

I have been sucked into helping my brother replace the transom on his 211[Smile]The hull is a 1993 211.



He is re powering and wanted to do a full transom and bracket. The previous owner had raised the transom and used a aluminum bracket to cover it all. In addition he wanted to get rid of the boxes in the stern. So yesterday we cut the last 3' of the liner out to give us good access to the transome and get the boxes out.



We then built a mold to replace the liner section that was removed. We used melamine to create the mold. Need to add hatch recesses and round over corners then prep for the layup. My bub and nephew are getting the core out today. We are going to build an integral bracket, like the Bertram I am doing, once the transom is recored. Stringers will be raised to the deck height in the area currently open and extend right into the bracket. More to come.








My bub and nephew got most of the core out . Now they will clean it up and we will add onto the exterior skin to make it full height. Then core it.





Did a little more work on the mold today. Added the drain channel to the floor and also added the floor hatch the rear bulkhead access hatch both which are 12x20 and two side access hatches that will allow us to glass the new liner piece to the old liner piece. They used core mat between the core and the outer skin. Makes it a little tough to get the skin cleaned up but they are getting there.


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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by Admin - Shine on Tue Nov 24, 2015 9:01 am

thats very nice work, I like the idea of building in those channels !
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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by DAYTRIP on Fri Nov 27, 2015 7:24 pm

We did the transom today. Raised the exterior skin then put the core in after it cured for several hours. . We also sprayed the MDf and gutters on mold with duratek. Sanded and clayed the corners. Going to hit it with pva then lay it up tomorrow.




You can see the mold for the area to be raised up. Used black melamine so you can see the air very well.





Glass laid up


Templated for the core. Using 3/4 meranti plywood.


Used wood flour mixed with epoxy as the glue to adhere the core to the exterior skin


Used v notched trowel to spread the epoxy evenly.


First core in place

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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by Cracker Larry on Sun Nov 29, 2015 8:26 am

I think I've finally seen a drill motor nastier than mine Very Happy That's got to be a Dewalt under there!


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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by DAYTRIP on Sun Nov 29, 2015 3:55 pm

Classic Larry! It is actually a ryobi! I have a matching hammer driver. $99 from HD for the set. I am amazed that they have lasted although they are close to done. A year so far Very Happy

Yesterday I did the gel coat on the mold and today we layed it up. First pic is work in progress and second is done for today. Core is on the deck. Need to do biax and core pieces on sides and gunnels and it will be done.









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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by Admin - Shine on Mon Nov 30, 2015 12:21 pm

very nice work as always. Should be interesting to see how it comes apart, I suppose wedging it from the top of the open end and it will come up enough to let it release.
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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by DAYTRIP on Sun Dec 06, 2015 8:57 am

Pull the rear deck part off the mold today. Came out good. Happy with the result.
The brown materials on the edges is the duratec. The green is pva. Pva washes off with water and the duratec will come off with a light sand at most. The only real issue was that we put the second coat of gel coat on to fast and we got a lot of alligatoring. We had waited about 75 minutes so that was a little frustrating. It gets painted anyway so no big deal. You can see we put access hatches on the side and that is so I can glass to the back side of the liner. We now just need to fit the floor up by scribing it to the existing.









Also started on the fixture for the bracket mold. Will finish that up tomorrow. We decided to build the part off the boat vs. right on the boat like I did the Bertram. What we did first is level the boat side to side using a water level at the c*****. Then we leveled fore to aft using the scumline on the hull as a reference. This allows to have some base reference/control using a level. The fore aft level lets us set the dive platform parallel to the waterline. You can see the 2x that run horizontally. They project the line of the hull so we can set the bracket shape and correct motor mounting height. The angle of that mounting surface matches the transom angle. The lines on the transom are the lines of the bracket perimeter itself. Right now it is designed for a 30 single 25" twins. That makes the dive platform very high. My brother is all about twins and I am trying to coach him out of that. If he gets their we likely would lower it to a 25" height in the middle so the dive platform sits 5" lower.







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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by Admin - Shine on Sun Dec 06, 2015 2:17 pm

I guess you matched the slope of the sheer in the mold, looks good !

I think I follow what your doing with the bracket, build it off the boat (using hull as a jig to make the mold), glass it up, then bolting it to the hull?
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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by DAYTRIP on Sun Dec 06, 2015 4:37 pm

Yea exactly Joel on both counts. The liner follows the shear perfectly. I left a small piece of the old cap in place at the shear line and build the mold to that surface. The gutters worked good! Had one hang up along the back, think I must have missed it with pva.

On the bracket, I am going to extend the stringers through the transom to the bracket and because the entire floor is not out I could not figure out how to build it in place like I did the Bertram. I actually finished the mold for the bracket this morning. Installed the black melamine and used clay in the corners to create filets/rounded corners. Sprayed three coats of pva then started the layup. Did 5plys on the clamping face and 4 on the others.  Using epoxy for added strength and because it is SO much nicer to work with. The Raku is epoxy is the bomb. Next task will be to core the clamping surface and then do the inner skins. Same layup on the inner skins. What do you think?  





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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by Admin - Shine on Mon Dec 07, 2015 9:13 am

Thats a lot of glass, but its not going to hurt. Core thickness is going to be what matters more. Since nothing is being calculated, then I would go thick. 1.5" or 2" on the back, and 1/2" or even 3/4" on the sides and bottom.

Running the stringers all the way to the back of the bracket transom. I would be generous with the overlaps of stringer tabbing to the bracket
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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by DAYTRIP on Fri Dec 18, 2015 6:07 pm

Got the bracket finished last week. The clamping board is 3-3/4" ply woods and the sides are 1- 3/4" plywood. Did four plys of glass on the clamping board, three on the sides and one more on the bottom. Using the mold as a fixture to hold it in place on the boat. Need to template the stringers in and glass the bracket in place. Of course we also need to build the dive platform as well.






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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by Admin - Shine on Fri Dec 18, 2015 7:07 pm

You guys really get it done! If I build the bracket for the 26, I will copy your mold method
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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by DAYTRIP on Fri Jan 01, 2016 4:36 pm

We glassed the inner skins on the transom today. We did 4 plys of 1708 between the stringers and three outside. You can see the stringers for the bracket visit inside the existing stringers and extend through the transom the bracket clamping board











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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by Admin - Shine on Mon Jan 04, 2016 10:11 am

bracket came out very nice. No fairing on the outside is a major win !
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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by DAYTRIP on Mon Feb 01, 2016 10:38 am

Some good progress to show on the project. Got the dive platform built and installed. Used 1/2" coosa board from Joel's shop and glassed both sides with 1708. Then tabed it to the boat. Very solid. We also installed the rear deck part that we built. Fit up really nicely. Glassed it from behind with 3 layers and from the top with one. The body work starts now. Coming out really nice.






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Re: Transom replacement on Mako 211

Post by Cracker Larry on Mon Feb 01, 2016 11:01 am

Very nice work Cool

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