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new skiff design

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Madmooner
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Post by Admin - Shine Thu Oct 08, 2015 10:50 am

now that we are decided on sheathed strip construction we move forward with the design.  Here is the next rough draft for consideration.  I think we will flatten out the sheer line just a bit.  Right now disregard the deck and insides, we are working on hull shape now. WELCOMING COMMENTS NOW Very Happy

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Post by mattgent Fri Oct 09, 2015 3:32 am

The pics just show as a grey minus sign for me. I am logged in. Looks like they are pointing to google.

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Post by Admin - Shine Fri Oct 09, 2015 8:48 am

So strange seems these google galleries are viewable different ways.  Below are the pictures posted two ways, and here is a link to the whole gallery...

https://goo.gl/photos/xyVtacnNnvYUP3t79


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new skiff design - Page 2 ExC5MpJPyKqgBTz36
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Post by Admin - Shine Fri Oct 09, 2015 8:53 am

a third way Smile using this forums upload option...

new skiff design - Page 2 Skiff_14

new skiff design - Page 2 Skiff_15

new skiff design - Page 2 Skiff_16

new skiff design - Page 2 Skiff_17
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Post by Madmooner Fri Oct 09, 2015 11:36 am

I dig it Joel!
Looks nice and stable.

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Post by DAYTRIP Fri Oct 09, 2015 1:38 pm

Sweet. I like it

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Post by Admin - Shine Fri Oct 09, 2015 7:48 pm

Madmooner wrote:I dig it Joel!
Looks nice and stable.

Im glad you like it, we are moving right along with the design. What is your time frame to start building? I think we might be ready in a couple weeks with the plans.

DAYTRP wrote:Sweet. I like it

Thanks! Yes, it should be a great all around skiff. Could be built as a center console or flats boat too.
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Post by DAYTRIP Fri Oct 09, 2015 8:39 pm

Exactly what I was thinking. Reminds me of the 15 I built

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Post by Cracker Larry Sun Oct 11, 2015 8:06 am

Very nice lines. I like it too!

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Post by Admin - Shine Sun Oct 11, 2015 8:26 am

Still rough draft, but progressing.  The rear casting deck is just about the same height from the sole, so it makes sense to make this the same level with gunnels, Of course it would be very easy to make the rear deck shorter if you wanted.  The motor-well will be a little different than what you see in the picture, and if you plan to use a jack plate, it can be built without a motorwell.  

new skiff design - Page 2 Skiff_13

new skiff design - Page 2 Skiff_18
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Post by Cracker Larry Mon Oct 12, 2015 10:28 am

I like the sheer better with a curve rather than flat.

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Post by Admin - Shine Mon Oct 12, 2015 11:17 am

yeah, its slightly upward sloping now but I think we flattened it a bit too much.
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Post by Admin - Shine Mon Oct 12, 2015 5:02 pm

new skiff design - Page 2 Skiff510

new skiff design - Page 2 Skiff511

new skiff design - Page 2 Skiff512

new skiff design - Page 2 Skiff513

new skiff design - Page 2 Skiff514

new skiff design - Page 2 Skiff515
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Post by Cracker Larry Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:46 am

Better Very Happy

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Post by Admin - Shine Tue Oct 13, 2015 12:47 pm

this boat is going to need a name................ any ideas?

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Post by Admin - Shine Wed Oct 14, 2015 10:47 am

Plans will be ready soon, but the webpage it up (less detailed descriptions) as is the epoxy/glass kit.

https://www.gulfstreamcomposites.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SS17

In order to help get a few of these built we will offer a discount on the epoxy kit equal to the price paid for the plans.

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Post by Madmooner Wed Oct 14, 2015 4:30 pm

I agree with Cracker Larry, definitely got "flattened" out a bit much. The second design set is much better! I like the entry and higher bow. More panga like.

I will be looking at just after the holidays. Hunting season is taking up my free time for the next couple months. It will also give me time to get materials in and organized, and a spot set up in the garage.

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Post by Madmooner Wed Oct 14, 2015 4:33 pm

If I want to start calling around about wood, what am I looking for? Dimensions, etc...

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Post by Admin - Shine Wed Oct 14, 2015 5:41 pm

Madmooner wrote:If I want to start calling around about wood, what am I looking for? Dimensions, etc...

strips are going to be 3/8" thick western red cedar. You can get it from any decent lumber yard. You will cut the strips from boards, and the board thickness will determine the width of your strip. I would look for boards at least 1" thick, 1-1/2" would be good too and save you some work (less strips). Boards typically come in 10/14/16 foot lengths. I priced them locally (in FL) and a 1"x6" board was $1.38 per linear foot - i imagine they will be the same of better out your way since your a lot closer to the trees.

We are working on the plywood parts now, but the plan is to make everything from one thickness (3/8" thick) so you only need to source one thickness and allows better use of scrap. Will know how many sheets very soon.

Epoxy/glass kit is ready Wink I will send a download link to the plans as soon as they are ready.

Besides all of that, there is not much else to source besides some lumber for a strongback and some MDF for molds. All that can come from the home improvement store.

One of my ideas for this skiff is to make it build-able without needing to pay freight for special plywood. By all means, try to find marine ply, that is the first choice. If you cannot find it then you can use good quality exterior grade ply, no knots or voids.
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Post by Madmooner Fri Oct 16, 2015 3:41 pm

Thanks Joel.

Is there a certain grade of WRC board I should look for? Does it need to be 100% clear?

Table saw the best tool to rip the boards into 3/8" strips? Any issue with 2x lumber instead of 1 or 1 1/2 x?

Seems to be a lot of Alaskan Yellow Cedar around here. Is that a good substitute?


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Post by Admin - Shine Sat Oct 17, 2015 12:27 pm

Yes, yellow cedar will work too. It's properties are very close to western red cedar. No problem cutting two inch white strips either, you may want to use some slightly narrower strips along the chine and sheer, then run the wider strips in between. The strips do not need to be parallel, in order to work. In other words, they don't need to twist. The only strips that will twist will be the ones that you use along the chine and sheer. . It's okay if the boards have a few knots, but clear makes for less joints/work. The strips shouldn't have knots in them (at least none that are significant). Remember the strips are merely the core, they do not have to be as perfect as if you were building a "wood" boat.

Let me know what you find

Joel
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Post by Admin - Shine Fri Oct 23, 2015 2:46 pm

Design is complete, we are now putting together the plans, jig plans, and building notes. Here is a link to the SS17............


https://www.gulfstreamcomposites.com/Articles.asp?ID=261

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Post by Madmooner Thu Oct 29, 2015 4:47 pm

Hi Joel- Just looked at your 25 project, looks like you are about to start strip planking! I'm excited to see it come together. Should help me immensely to see it.


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Post by Madmooner Thu Oct 29, 2015 4:49 pm

You using a table saw to rip the strips? Rip them full length (6' or 8'?) and then cut to size? The boards surfaced on 4 sides or is that not necessary since you are cutting into strips?

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Post by Admin - Shine Thu Oct 29, 2015 8:06 pm

Madmooner wrote:You using a table saw to rip the strips? Rip them full length (6' or 8'?) and then cut to size? The boards surfaced on 4 sides or is that not necessary since you are cutting into strips?

Yes, a table saw makes it super fast. You don't need 4s for the sanded finish. The cedar I just purchased for the big boat was all 4s, but that was only because the better quality boards (almost perfectly clear) only came sanded. So I got 1.5"x5.5" (actual size) clear and dry for $2.40 linear foot, 14' boards. For the skiff you can use shorter boards. Most of the strips can be from 8' boards using just one joint. You might try to get one 10' board to make some of the longer strips.
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