Re: New boat project CCSF25.5 - build thread

[Admin - Shine]

more prepping for the wide cloth along the bottom.  Will be running two 30" wide lengths that overlap one another in the space between strakes (under where stringer will be), also overlap up the chine.  Second strip overlaps the keel.

The strakes have been trimmed where they extended all the way through the hull, so glass will go over them.

Pictures below are of the first strip area before glass.  Wetting out wood, filling gaps, making a fillet along bottom of strake.







my helper

[DAYTRIP]

Looks like you guys wear the same kind of shoes

[Admin - Shine]

Looks like you guys wear the same kind of shoes

neither of us like shoes very much, the two younger sisters and mom however, cant get enough

Two more layers of 17 oz on the port side. Center section of the hull is just about ready, moisture is now within 3% of the rest of the wood. Will probably lay the center glass on Wednesday.

Wood wet out prior to glassing



After 2x DB1700

[Admin - Shine]

More glass on the bottom. I had to glass the front area separately as its impossible to get up there and run full lengths strips. Keel is glassed over, now all that remains are 2 layers on each side of the keel, overlapping from the base of the outside strake all the way over the keel. Its going to be a back buster for sure.

Looking forward to laying up the transom and stringers next

[Admin - Shine]

Slow but steady progress. The last of the hull bottom glass is in. Hull bottom glass is 2 x DB1700, with some places having 4 layers (overlaps)

Next is the transom. Before glassing the transom I need to get started on the sides (transom glass needs to overlap the sides). Picture shows dry fitting the first layer of inside glass layer. I will be laminating the sides of the hull in transverse strips of biaxial cloth. Wetting out a single long piece of glass on the inside is asking for trouble when working by yourself in this heat. Laying the glass this way means a little waste (with the overlaps), but thats not so important as having a good quality lamination.

[Admin - Shine]

and here it is all wet out.  I have been having problems with outgassing of the wood after doing large laminations.  After laying two layer of glass and then closing the warehouse doors, the heat of the resin plus the 100+ degree temps inside would sometimes cause the wood to outgass and make large air bubbles.  The air bubbles are easy to fix, but its annoying.  Today I put two large halogen lamps on the surface to be glassed closed the warehouse doors and let it heat up for a couple hours.  Removed the heat lamp, then bushed on epoxy, then laminated with 1708.  The idea is to get the cooling wood to draw in epoxy, vs expel air.  Seemed to work well, but will bot know until I go back tomorrow.    I have done the reverse of this many times, use heat lamps to get epoxy to cure quicker

next step: fill in gap between transom, make fillet radius, tab in transom.

[Admin - Shine]

tabbing in the transom. DB1708 tabbing 18" wide strips.

[Admin - Shine]

Starting with the stringers.  Stringers are H130 and H160 divinycell in 2".  The core is a mix of single cut and double cut.  It would be nice to have plain sheet material for this, but filling the kerfs is not such a big deal considering the deal I got on the foam.  

In the original design, the stringers are flat and close to parallel to the waterline. This gave really nice depth/freeboard  up in the front of the boat, but it also necessitated either forward seating or a step up to hide where the sole intersected the chine.  I redrew the stringers so that they are 6" higher at the bow and sloping back to the original height at the transom.  You can see on the chalk line the new shape.  I will still have knee high decks at the bow.





epoxy gluing the pieces together

[Admin - Shine]

I am raising the stringers level so that is slopes up goinig forward, this will allow the sole to cover the chine without forward seating. drawings show the new level. Basically they are 5" taller at the front, same level at trasom

[Admin - Shine]

2 layers 1708 on the transom, 2 more to go.....

[Admin - Shine]

final two layers on transom

[Admin - Shine]

stringer layup. 36 oz triax (0/45/45). Going to laminate both sides, then cap them with more triax after they are glassed into the hull. Toying with the idea of baking them first. This epoxy will be a good bit stiffer with a post cure. Stringer core is H160 Divinycell in 2"

[Admin - Shine]

making stringer #2

trimmed up the first stringer, used it as template for cutting core for #2. Epoxy together the core pieces. Once both stringers are laminated, I will trim the hull angle off the bottom of each stringer, then dry fit them into the hull. If the degree of rise going forward looks too extreme, I can trim them both. I drew them out on the 3D model, but sometimes I like to see/feel something like this to make sure its right. Stringers will then get glassed to the hull, then capped with additional layers of triaxial fiberglass.

[Wej]

Looking great!

[Admin - Shine]

stringers complete, now trimming them to fit. Cut the hull angle into the bottom, takes a little work to make them fit.

[Admin - Shine]

still need just a tiny bit of trimming, but they are in and fit nicely. With the incresed height, I still have 25" of freeboard at the transom and at least 31 at the bow.

[Admin - Shine]

a little more trimming and they fit like a glove Nice and level. Pre-sanded the sides of the stringers, next step is to glass them in, but first a much needed shop clean up.

[maxtork]

Looking good!

I can't tell from the picture but do you only have glass on the sides of the stringers? I know you had to trim the bottoms so that part makes sense but are you just going to glue the floor down to the tops of the stringers or will they get a layer of glass first to seal them up?

Keep up the good work
Max

[Admin - Shine]

Looking good!

I can't tell from the picture but do you only have glass on the sides of the stringers? I know you had to trim the bottoms so that part makes sense but are you just going to glue the floor down to the tops of the stringers or will they get a layer of glass first to seal them up?

Keep up the good work
Max

Yes, they get capped with a couple layers of glass.

got back the stringers today, glassed in the outside port stringer.  2x1708 tabbing

the morning before the hurricane blew through, I was worried about the warehouse roof coming off, so I put a quick sealing coat of epoxy on the remaining bare wood and drilled a drain hole in the transom



1/2"  radius fillet





2 layers of tabbing laid over the still tacky fillet.





the morning before the hurricane blew through, I was worried about the warehouse roof coming off, so I put a quick sealing coat of epoxy on the remaining bare wood and drilled a drain hole in the transom

[Admin - Shine]

Stringers are glassed in.  I think Im going to build the bracket now, will be easy to fit and lines things up at this stage.  I am modifying the bracket a little from the drawings, building it from foam core instead of wood, making it a few inches taller.  Also considering nixing the chine fender.

Drawing out the bracket tub, have to leave enough room for trim tab actuator, and drains.  

[Admin - Shine]

mocking up the mold for the bracket tub, making templates for the melamine pieces.  Dont worry, the bracket is not as tall as the molds

Got another 8' of glass on each side of the hull.  Will start putting in the transverse framing soon,  but will need to cap the stringers first.

Bracket will be all composite. vinyl-ester resin, foam core. Its offset about 4" up from running surface.  My plan is to go ahead and build the bracket tub now and bolt it in place now, will save a ton of work later and be a lot cleaner install.

[Admin - Shine]

subframes cut to shape. One foot on either side of the first and last subframe will be a full height frame, this makes the space for the wing tanks. With the space as I have it now, the tanks will be 40 gallons each. If I trim down the subframes an inch I can get another 5 gallons. If I make the tanks asymmetrical (sloping up), I probably get another 5 gallons.












bracket tub mold in progress.

[DJB]

Two questions?

Why vinyl-ester composite and not epoxy composite for the bracket?

Are you sure even 100 gallons is enough fuel for a boat that big? I have used 180 gallons on a number of occasions on my 27ft. It holds 240gallons....

[Admin - Shine]

Two questions?

Why vinyl-ester composite and not epoxy composite for the bracket?

Are you sure even 100 gallons is enough fuel for a boat that big?  I have used 180 gallons on a number of occasions on my 27ft. It holds 240gallons....

VE is stiffer and Im going to make the part all in one piece in a mold (using a VE gelcoat).  Epoxy doesn't offer much of an advantage here,  VE wets out matt better.

There is a center tank of 75 gallons also, so I will have 150 gallons at least.

[Admin - Shine]

subframes trimmed down to a little over 3" height, rounded over, and epoxied into place. Rounded the stringers off too. Started cutting the foam for the full height frames (that will be the front and back of the wing tank compartments).

Those 20 lb foam planks really came in handy for the subframes.

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