Re: New boat project CCSF25.5 - build thread

[DAYTRIP]

That is a lot of parts. Looking forward to seeing them in one piece!

[Cracker Larry]

Very ambitious project! Looks great.

[Admin - Shine]

Put a could molds together for fun, takes only a couple minutes each. Checking them against plans, came out to less than 1/16" tolerance

Making the platform is more work than putting up the jig, should be finishing that part up today.

Pictures of the CNC boat jig

[Admin - Shine]

test

[DAYTRIP]

That is not a one off mold! I see many boats coming off that baby.

[Admin - Shine]

That is not a one off mold! I see many boats coming off that baby.

It should be good for several hulls at least. Have to get the first one off the jig first though

all the mold stations are put together, start assembly of jig tomorrow. The humidity is brutal, I cant wait for cooler weather.

[DAYTRIP]

Nice. Are you doing layout lines on the table? I have a laser level if you need it

[Admin - Shine]

One of the drawings gives mold station locations, measured from the origin (mold 0).  I drew a straight line across the back of the table, then mark the mold locations on each side of the table (that what Im doing in the above picture) then use the straight edge to draw a line across the table in the mold location. I will then screw in a block of wood in the mold location

mold/station locations are given to the side of the mold that will be in contact with the strips, so for the first several molds the molds are measured to the rear face, then it switches once the hull comes back towards the bow.  We show the faces on the drawing.

The platform is level transversely, and its pretty close to being perfectly flat on top, which is all that matters with this kind of jig  The jig self-aligns with the side mold pieces, the keel, and the bow mold.  I had about 1.5mm clearance cut into the slots so the parts dont fit super tight (binding is bad).  

Anyway, we will see tomorrow how well it all fits.    

[Admin - Shine]

setting up the jig. Took only a few hours by myself. Still need to put the transom jig on and some of the spacers.

[DAYTRIP]

Looks great. I was thinking it would be great if you could incorporate the cap in the mold but forgot the table is not the shear line.

[Admin - Shine]

Looks great. I was thinking it would be great if you could incorporate the cap in the mold but forgot the table is not the shear line.

now that would be a good trick. Im sure it could be done, but it might take more work than it saves. I could make a separate set of jigs to mold in the deck, then put them up on the same table once the hull is flipped. Build the inside of the hull and work on the deck jig at the same time. I dont have enough room in this shop to do it, but for the next boat its a great idea. Next boat might be a 32' and I will need space more that boat, and it probably wont be for another year or two.

It does not look like much different, but over the weekend I finished up the jig set up. Installed the side molds, which hold the aft sections in correct place. Also the transom mold, which is set at an angle. The slot in the side mold is oversize so the transom mold will fit snug at the right angle. My helper was excited to do some boat work....

[DAYTRIP]

Really cool. I was going to call you and see if you were working on it but got lazy. I need to get more glass and fillers so maybe I will swing up. Looking forward to seeing the chines process. Any fit up issues at all or perfect so far?

[Admin - Shine]

Any fit up issues at all or perfect so far?

It went together very, very easy. There was one minor bit of enlarging a couple notches, but thats super simple.

Your welcome to come by whenever you like. Im not working on it much this week, but its ready to for strip planking right now if I had the material ready.

[DAYTRIP]

Sweet! I'll see how things go.

[Carolina flare]

I just got caught up on this Joel. It's so cool. I'll stop by next week.
Bob

[peter-curacao]

looks great Joel

[Wadestep]

Really looking good, Joel.  Can you comment on the reasons behind the hull design (the wetted running surface)?
Looking at this picture,

it looks like a lot of extra steps to the building process, but also looks like the design that many quality production boat builders are striving for.  
There must be some good reasons for the added complexity ie: in the ride, weight of engine allowed, fuel efficiency, etc...
Looks like you're in the fun part - forming up the boat. Then comes the fairing, and fairing, and .... well you seem to do it in about 1/4 of the time it took me...
Wade

[Admin - Shine]

Really looking good, Joel.  Can you comment on the reasons behind the hull design (the wetted running surface)?
Looking at this picture,
it looks like a lot of extra steps to the building process, but also looks like the design that many quality production boat builders are striving for.  
There must be some good reasons for the added complexity ie: in the ride, weight of engine allowed, fuel efficiency, etc...

Hi Wade,

I will see if I can elaborate.....

The bracket is a different part, separate from the hull. The bracket does have a lot of buoyancy, enough for a big 300 or twin 200's, it bolts onto the transom and could be made from aluminum if desired. Basically, the hull bottom is a little more than a 23' hull, but the sides cary back to give a euro styling and hide some of the bracket. The boat could be built without the side extensions and then it would look a lot like a 25 seavee or whitewater or contender (with a bracket).

The big bracket keeps the running surface smaller while going fast, but its enough volume to add a lot of buyoancy at slower speeds. I thought about making the bracket go all the way to the sides, but that would have meant building recesses for the tabs, too much work IMO.

Most of the complexity of the running surface is made easy with the jig (chine, flat keel section, and strakes).

The chines are a little wider than my old SC, to help deflect spray. The flat section of the keel will help with low speed planing, it lowers the draft a little, and gives a nice place to mount a thru-hull transducer. The strakes will improve high speed handling, the faster it goes the more the flat keel and stakes will help the ride too. Im sure you have been on a deep v boat where the hull seems to be happy running over on one side - the strakes will keep that from happening.

Looks like you're in the fun part - forming up the boat.  Then comes the fairing, and fairing, and .... well you seem to do it in about 1/4 of the time it took me...
Wade

It is fun to see the shape. It will be even more fun to start stripping the hull. I am not envisioning too much trouble with the fairing, I tried to make the jig do most of the work. Its still a lot of boat to fair though

[Tablab22]

Hi Joel,
When do you think you will start stripping the hull? I cant wait to see how that process is done. The canoe has me motivated to build the SS17 next.

[Admin - Shine]

Hi Joel,  
When do you think you will start stripping the hull?  I cant wait to see how that process is done.  The canoe has me motivated to build the SS17 next.

Ordered the lumber last week. Hopefully I will have it in the day or two, then start ripping strips.
Might start stripping by weeks end

[Admin - Shine]

wood came in, a dozen 2"x6" cedar, 6 1x6 douglas fir and a few sheet of 1/2" Marine fir.

I am very luck that I have a friend with a cabinet shop, and he it across the parking lot from my shop We ripped up the strips in about an hour. Depending on waste, this should be enough material to get me pretty close to having the hull stripped.

The cedar is just about perfectly clear, there are probably only two or three knots I will need to cut around. This particular wood if "4s" finished, not because I care about it being sanded, but they are better quality boards. We ripped the boards to 5/8" thickness, so I ended up with seven 5/8" x 1.5" strips per board.

The fir is for the chines mainly.

Fir plywood is for the keel and the strakes.

Started building the strakes today, got the first layer on the outside strakes and epoxied on the second layer on the inside strakes. The strakes are 3x1/2 epoxied together. With any luck I will get the strakes just about finished tomorrow along with the keel. Need to start scarfing together some long strips for the hull

[DAYTRIP]

Looking good man. What did you do cut the 2x6 in rips 3/4 thick?

[Admin - Shine]

2x6 cedar is 1.5x5.5 really, so we cut 5/8" strips.

[Admin - Shine]

some progress today.

Installed the keel section (I had a temporary piece there for spacing sake) and began stripping the hull. These first few strips are going on pretty easy. The strips do not have to follow a particular line. The exceptions are the strips used to define line like the chine and sheer, they need to run on their lines, and the other strips will run into them. It looks rough now, but the strips get faired and shaped before glass. Started filling the spaces between the strips with epoxy. I am using epoxy with a woodflour/silica mix to fill the gaps

[Admin - Shine]

Was able to get about 4 hours into the boat today. I am really liking the strip planking. Only have a few more long strips to run. I epoxied most of the strips together (didnt get a picture). I am hopeful that I can have the bottom stripped and epoxy filled this week, the only thing that might stop that is a good fishing forecast for Friday

I am using empty caulk tubes to fill the gaps with epoxy glue, it really speeds up the process and pushes the glue in better than a spreader. The glue is our 2/1 epoxy with a fillet/glue filler blend (woodflour and silica). To fill a caulk tube I mix 200ml resin and 100ml hardener in a quart pot, then I fill the remaining volume of the cup with the filler, mix. This give a perfect amount to fill the caulk tube.

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